Juniper
AKA: Juniperus communis.
Effects: Said to increase happiness, energy, and strength. It is also used for its detoxifying, diuretic, and antiseptic qualities, as well as maintaining concentration during prayer and meditation.
Precautions: Should not be used for kidney problems. The oil could be adulterated with turpentine.
Questions and Answers
My Witchita Blue Juniper Spiral tree has issues - any suggestions?, I have an approx 5 yr old Witchita Blue Juniper spiral that stands about 5 1/2 ft tall. Last summer the bottom half of the tree had new growth, but the top half didn't. This year, so far the tree is very dry and doesn't seem to have any new growth. The tree is in a flower bed, so I think it got enough water last summer. It's sheltered from the wind, and is in full sun. Any ideas about causes and remedies?
Hi:
It might be a good idea to prune it back. This could be a reason for the sporadic growth pattern. I would also loosen the dirt and add some organic mushroom compost to the soil. This is an organic fertilizer that will last up to one year. It doesn't smell great, but your Blue Juniper will love it. For the first couple of weeks after you prune and add the compost, take a hose, and turn the water on low, and allow the entire base of the tree to get soaked. This will ensure all the roots are getting water.
If you don't have any, add some pine straw or mulch around the trees, as this will help retain the moisture. I am a landscaper and designer sometimes some of the Juniper species will do this funny growth pattern. I will link you to the proper pruning page of my website. This will show you the correct way to prune your tree. I will also link you to the site map, as this page has everything that is on the website. Browse through and see if you can find any other articles, tips or techniques that may be of help to you. Good luck to you and have a great day!
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...
How hard is it to transplant a juniper bush?, The front of our house is lined with juniper bushes and for some odd reason one just withered away right in the middle of it all. Not sure what happened. I never water them but the others are thriving just fine...as are our neighbors junipers.
You don't specify size or type but I have one I've moved one 3 times and it's still alive. Make a large rootball leave as many roots intact as possible. Water initially with a B-1 type shock preventative and keep watering on a regular basis until the plant is established.
Is it a good idea to mix different juniper varieties in a landscape?, I have removed about 45 large, hedge-type junipers in order to replace them with ground-cover junipers. I'm looking at Juniperus sabina buffalo, Blue pacific juniper, and Old gold juniper. How would it look to vary the types by planting one of each in several rows?
Thanks!
When I'm contemplating a planting scheme, I often use some colored pencils. I try to make what I envision for an over-all shape/silhouette in either the vegetation's ideal size or, in a potential over size; I draw that rough shape. Then I color in the shape with what I envision the color to be. When I do so, I try to indicate the general texture of the planned vegetation with my pencil strokes. In your juniper case, the textures are all about the same so, despite how I scratch the color into my faint silhouette outline, I'ld color each plant with about the same style of pencil shading or texture.
Yellow and blue heighten each other's color intensity. I would have some concerns about your new bed looking a little busy and/or like it has polk-a-dots. I would have a tendancy to choose one as a primary color (either blue or yellow) and then use the other as one would a specimen planting and/or as an accent that draws the eye down or through the entire bed.
When in doubt, use a triangular planting arrangement. Some triangles have equal lengthed sides. Some have one short side, one medium legnthed side, and one longer side. Some are skinny little things with a short side and two long sides. When "planting in triangles", the plant goes where two sides of the triangle meet. If you stand behind a plant and look into the triangle, you should have a straight line of sight to each of the others. When planting down a bed in triangles, an individual plant is often one of the points of more than one triangle. If you want a more formal look, then plant with equal shaped triangles; this may mean all having the same distance between or, a repeating pattern of triangles. If you want a more informal look, then use odd shaped triangles and mix the lengths of the various sides/distances between plants.
There are some other traditional planting patterns. One such pattern is to plant in diamonds; an off-kilter rectangle or square. But, many of these patterns can be done with triangles/repeating patterns of triangles.
I am not particularly a landscape artist. And even so, more often than not I haven't disciplined my self enough to actually sketch something on paper. When working in triangles, you can put a pot down on the ground "in a good place", stand behind it, pick the next two points, put pots down, stand back and adjust the placements by looking at it from different angles, then dig the holes and actually plant. When I look at my placements, I actually walk out onto and down the street in both directions as if I were driving by. I walk along the road/side walk as if walking by. I walk in and out of the house, from around the edge of the house, and along any other path I would normally travel. I may or may not actually stand in front of the bed and look at it straight on. Often, it is these other different views that the bed is going to actually seen from.
Sometimes, I have a tough choice - Do I orient the bed's vegetation for a better street and public view or, for my personal and in-yard view? For me, it depends on where it is and its function. However, if it causes eye riviting discord along my normal paths in the yard - I definitely change the position and/or the actual plant. Because I do this while the plants are still in their containers, it is much easier to "simply move" something.
The other thing I do is try to imagine the plant's size in 10 to 50 years: I figure that the hole for my containered plant is bad enough to dig. No way to I want to dig up and move an oversized plant! To fill in the area, I use smaller, sacrificial plants that will either die and go away or just form an understory sometime within 1 to 50 years. For inexpensive, quick, summer ground coverage and shading, I often use tomato plants. Rhubarb, chives, and lemon balm often make great, inexpensive, hardy, understory plants.
how soon can i let my juniper bonsai tree have sunlight after sun burning it?, i have 4 juniper bonsai trees that i sun burned over a month ago and i dont know how long to wait to let them have sunlight or how much without causing more harm to them.They are looking better but have not ben in sunlight for awhile.If you have any suggestions or tips please help.
They do not need direct sunlight.Is why they burned in the first place.Inside the house keep away from the window or place in a window that gets only morning sun. Outside keep in the dappled shade or early morning sun only.All day sun or afternoon sun is to hot for them.A product made by Miracle-Grow,called Mir-Acid is excellent for all evergreens that have been burned.Can put into soil and spray on plant.Use as directed.
are the berries from the juniper tree ok to eat?, I have been told that making a tea with the juniper berries and consuming it will help people with juniper alergies?
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